Author: Marita Vercauteren
Where to begin …
With a dream, an almost lifelong dream!
My dream of going to Rwanda to see the gorillas and chimpanzees was discouraged by Rudy (my husband). He thought it was too dangerous with all the guerrilla fighters in the Virunga area, and that the trip and tracking would be too physically demanding for me. We finally decided to plan a trip to South Africa instead. It was a very nice trip with two wildlife parks and several game drives. The travel group wasn’t really interested and a substandard guide immediately brought us back down to earth. On our own initiative, we arranged a boat trip and the whale encounter with a calf was a highlight.
That’s when the seed was planted and I realized that when I retired at 68, I wanted a safari and nothing else, and certainly not with a bus full of 36 people.
Years of preparation, making choices and gathering the necessary resources. Not everyone is able to realize this. I realize very well that I (we) am (are) privileged and am grateful and at the same time humble in the knowledge that I was able to experience this adventure (because that’s what it was).
The choices you make in life, but also when deciding who and which agency or travel organization to go with, are so important.
I happened to discover Travel 2 Galaxy on social media and saw their travel offers, including a 16-day Africa Safari with no less than 12 days of safari through Kenya and Tanzania with so many parks, ending with 3 days of rest in Zanzibar. Truly high standard and 5-star accommodation. In my mind, it couldn’t be better or more beautiful.
After saying goodbye to my colleagues and the company at the end of March 2024, it was time to book our trip … but the 2024 trip was already fully booked! So, we signed up for next year, 2025! It actually worked out even better, because that year we will be celebrating our 50th wedding anniversary and my 70th birthday in December! Many birds with one stone!
The decision was made: booked in September 2024 and paid a deposit, and now we can continue dreaming … Childish but so real …
Preparing vaccines, visas, ETAs and passports, planning everything well so that nothing could go wrong. Making lists and packing luggage. Tickets in the mailbox. Flying via Frankfurt stresses Rudy out; he thinks the luggage won’t follow. No rendezvous at the airport, because we are the only ones leaving on this trip right now. Another dream come true for me, not having to take anyone else into account in the jeep! That stresses Rudy out even more. Creating peace for him and for me.
Day 1
Fortunate to have our son driving us to the airport. NO WORRIES (HAKUNA MATATA will follow later and bring peace of mind in all situations). Bjorn gives me some good advice: remember, Mum, you can’t save everyone. He gives us his bag of Trefin mints (lifesavers and rationed during our dusty drives) and off we go!!!
Outbound flight to Frankfurt went smoothly, then Nairobi here we come!
Arrival in Nairobi, in what looks like a large hangar with a thousand people waiting for security checks. Queuing and patience … THIS IS AFRICA!
Rudy is worried that our contact person won’t wait for us for so long … We queue for over an hour, but we get the necessary stamps and can pick up our luggage, which is waiting for us neatly. Outside, of course, with our NAME on display!!! It turns out to be tour guide Thomas, with driver/guide Martin from ASAP (As Safe as Possible), who will be looking after us for the next few days.
Dimitri from Travel 2 Galaxy had informed us that we were the only two travelers on this trip. Think ‘what a luxury, but maybe there will be more travelers tomorrow (via the hotel) who will join us’, so we’ll have to wait and see.
We see the 4 Points by Sheraton hotel flash by. Thomas explains, ‘FULLY BOOKED’, but you’ve been upgraded to another hotel. We drive through a neighborhood with many embassies and arrive at the Tribe Hotel, WOW!!! Beautiful, but it’s been a long and busy day of travelling. We fall asleep before our heads hit the pillow.
Day 2
Our safari adventure begins after a delicious breakfast and a few atmospheric photos of this beautiful hotel. What strikes me is the friendliness of everyone we meet here. The genuine concern for our well-being and comfort. Smiling faces, positive vibes. Songs from The Lion King run through my head, this is Africa. I ride this good vibe and enjoy!
And off we go with Thomas and Martin! We leave Nairobi behind us and with it the asphalt and concrete roads. Shocker, only sandy roads, potholes and bumps will be our lot for the next few days of travel. African massage is the explanation. Doesn’t affect me (us)!!
With an open mind and no great expectations, this trip can be a success. A small change in the program, but we are open to the choice of guide and driver. We check in around 1 p.m. at our first lodge, Sweet Waters Serena Camp, and have our first lunch with a view of the beautiful garden, waterhole, buffaloes and rhinos. We have already spotted many zebras and antelopes along the way.
Two of the BIG 5 already ticked off.
Our tent lodge with a terrace and a view of the savannah and mountains in the distance. Mount Kenya as a triangular peak on the horizon. I already feel so happy and there is still so much to come.
Around 3 p.m., we depart for Ol Pejeta Conservancy. I thought this was a protected sanctuary for elephants, so I am very surprised when we arrive. This is a sanctuary founded by Jane Goodall for her beloved chimpanzees. The first tears well up! My dear chimps! Two large families live here, mainly traumatized chimpanzees; the little ones were born here. A ranger accompanies us and tells us that the main building where they sleep and eat (fruit and vegetables) is located in the middle of the wooded area. From a high viewing platform, we can see the black roofs in the distance. He also warns us that they don’t always show themselves. But my good fortune and karma reward me with encounters. Rwanda/Uganda maybe???
I imagine myself in Chimp Eden, another story and documentary series that I watched and rewatched years ago. That’s where I learned the sounds of the chimps! I’m not going to do that here. In Pairi Daiza, the monkeys were so panicked by my shouting that they all fled to the roof! The message here is to enjoy yourself quietly and calmly!
My day couldn’t be better, and we still have to start our game drive. There they are, our lovely animals. First spotted was Pumba, elephants with their young. My enthusiasm prompts our driver/guide Martin to drive off-road through the savannah to the elephants. So happy and so close. Buffaloes, zebras, antelopes, gazelles, rhinos, lions. Our first drive couldn’t have been better. Already 4 of the BIG 5 ticked off on our second day in Africa!
On the way, we make another stop and visit the EVENAAR! This gives me an extra feeling of grounding. I feel so at home here! It’s very strange, but in my almost 70 years, I’ve never experienced this before.
Now back to our tent lodge for a freshen up and a delicious dinner. We take a stroll through the garden and enjoy the peace and beauty of this estate. It’s aperitif time, and they make an excellent margarita here, so we enjoy it! It gets dark here around 6.30 p.m., and at 9 p.m. we return to our tent via the attractively lit paths. Our bed has been made ready for us to sleep in and the mosquito net has been neatly draped. There is a hot water bottle in the bed to break through the chill of the night in the tent. Blissful, and the feeling of bliss continues. It is still winter here around the equator.
Sounds of nature, then silence, and then suddenly the roar of a lion, as if he were sitting right next to our tent. This is what I came for, this sound is unsurpassable! I fall blissfully asleep and am awakened in the morning by the birds and, unfortunately, our alarm leaving early for our next destination, Lake Nakuru National Park!
Day 3
Enjoying the beautiful sunrise over the savannah! The buffaloes are still resting at the waterhole. Could there be a more beautiful breakfast?
As we leave the lodge, we see the lion very close to the gate. We have a long drive ahead of us to Lake Nakuru, but thanks to our early departure and the game drive with many beautiful giraffes and our lion, this is also part of the adventure.
On the way, we stop for a washroom break and lunch. This is at a local store along the road with lots of gifts and African art. The ladies’ and gents’ toilets are at the back.
I listen to the story of the owner-salesman and immediately have my first purchase in my hand, a hippopotamus in black ebony. Back in the jeep, Rudy comes up with the idea of taking the BIG 5 home with us as a souvenir.
The local cuisine is served buffet style with pasta, rice, beef and chicken. Very tasty and served by the mamacooks. Another experience richer!
Arrival at Sarova Hill Lion Game Lodge. Check-in and luggage drop-off. Departure to Lake Nakuru and game drive. Normally, this lake appears pink due to the enormous number of flamingos. No flamingos to be seen because climate change has caused the lake to become increasingly silted up, there are few micro-organisms for food and the flamingos are not returning! However, there are lots of pelicans and hippos.
Fantastic drive and then suddenly lots of jeeps on a narrow road. Martin squeezes between them and stops in front of a tree with a leopard resting on a high branch. Once again, tears well up in our eyes. You don’t often see a leopard like this. We are lucky people!!!
The BIG 5 on our second day of safari.
White and black rhinos live on this plain in this park. Grazing hippos, storks, herons, secretary birds, too many to mention. A whole family of baboons on the path in front of our jeep. The waterfall will have to wait for another time, because we are driving back to our lodge. Thomas informs us that we will be leaving very early: before going to the Masai Mara, we will make a stop at the waterfall. Now Rudy is also happy and excited (following the program). Good food and sleep, and tomorrow we will wake up healthy again!
Day 4
After breakfast, we leave early. The lions are already resting in the tall grass after their night- time hunt. A whole group of giraffes stands peacefully in the morning light, feasting on the tasty leaves in the tall canopy. Topi, zebra, buffalo … the plain is so beautiful in the dawn light!
The waterfall is effective, as Martin said yesterday, but not impressive because the dry season is coming.
Our visit to the waterfall means we will not be visiting the Masai village, but we will do so later in Tanzania. No problem for us. HAKUNA MATATA.
Our transfer is, as on all roads here, bumpy and jolting. We are used to it by now. The dust, on the other hand … Bjorn gave us a bag of mint sweets when we left. These are now rationed for the dusty long journeys! By evening, my hair no longer looks white but yellowish beige, and our suitcases are cleaned every night (I don’t want broken zips) despite the blanket wrapped around them in the jeep. They are so caring towards us!
We arrive at the park entrance and enjoy our picnic, which is provided every morning at each lodge if necessary.
On the way to our lodge, we go on our first game drive in the Masai Mara.
We are, of course, interested in the great migration of the wildebeest, and Martin drives us to a few crossing points. The Mara bridge is phenomenal with the swirling Mara River.
Arrival at our lodge, where we are happy to be able to stay for two days. Strict rules in all lodges to lock everything properly, baboons are everywhere!
Enjoying a delicious aperitif and dinner, and once again impressed by our lodge with its view of the Masai Mara savannah. Hoping to see some of the GREAT MIGRATION tomorrow and going to sleep satisfied.
Day 5 & day 6
Breakfast and game drive. We set off early, but there are no wildebeests to be seen on the Serengeti side so, no crossing. Martin tells us that the rains have only just ended and that there is still green grass on the other side, so this year the migration is starting a little later. NATURE is how it comes. No worries!
A few herds have already crossed and suddenly we are in the middle of it! We see hundreds, even thousands of wildebeests crossing the road. The sound of the wildebeests and the neighing of the zebras are deafening. We drive on to the border between Kenya and Tanzania. We see the border posts, but the animals couldn’t care less! HAKUNA MATATA! There are no borders for them!
We had a fantastic drive and are happy with our stop and washroom, because here we can have a picnic and go on a 30-minute bush walk with a ranger. From the ridge, we look out over the Mara with herds of hippos: that sound, the paths they take to come up to graze at night. They sometimes travel 12 km to find nice tender green grass. They are most dangerous on their way back to the water!
Rudy asks our young ranger why he is armed. Well, just look down here, Nile crocodiles measuring no less than 6 to 7 meters are sunbathing on the bank.
Masai Mara, what a beautiful expanse of land, what a diversity of animals, what a splendor of nature. With our excellent driver Martin, we cross what we thought we would not be able to cross due to deep puddles. Adventure everywhere!
I almost forgot to describe another highlight during this drive. A young lion tries to cross a road (sand path), but an oncoming jeep blocks the path. The lion decides there is nothing better than to crawl under our stationary jeep. After much shouting and talking back and forth between Martin and the driver/oncoming driver, Martin knows that he can slowly drive back a meter. And there he lies, the king of the jungle. Actually, a little scared (I think), because he is trembling. But suddenly he straightens up and crosses the verge and sure enough, Rudy sees a lioness approaching from the elephant grass. Our lion seeks contact and we are witnesses to the wonders of nature!
We drive back to the lodge with some free time to explore the lodge and enjoy a nice drink on the beautiful terrace overlooking the savannah, the Mara and the sounds of nature. We will leave early again tomorrow, as we have a long drive ahead of us. So, we will have dinner early and go to bed on time.
I think, ‘I won’t hear any animals here at night’, but the lion lets out a roar and the hippos in the Mara does their best too.
Not a single night has passed without me going to sleep feeling overwhelmingly grateful that I am able to experience this at almost 70 years of age.
This overwhelming feeling of happiness compels me to share this story and write it down at home!
Day 7
A very early morning with a delicious breakfast and departure from the lodge. We set off on a long drive to the border crossing in Isebania for our five-day stay in Tanzania. The jeep and driver/guide will also change there.
What a drive! If you think safari in a jeep is tough, think again. On the way there, the jeeps try to pick up speed. I say try …
So early in the morning, you see lots of children along the route on their way to school. Beautiful uniforms with white socks and white shirts. I think, ‘How is this possible? With that orange rusty soil? They are all so friendly and smiling, sometimes having to walk 5 to 10 km, little ones barely 3 years old. Then they return home to live in corrugated iron houses. Food?
How good we have it … and yet we complain and whine about trivialities. I resolve to put things into perspective even more in the future. You are grateful that you were born on the other side or in another place. And yet, here you realize that a smile on their faces radiates happiness, happiness cannot be treasured and is found in the little things!
At the border, we sadly say goodbye to Martin, who brought us here safely. He still has many hours to drive and a long way back to his home base.
At the border, there is, of course, a whole procedure involving baggage checks, applying for visas for Tanzania and paying. We meet Hussein, our driver/guide for the next five days. He looks like a mix of Lukaku and Vincent Kompany.
We leave for Serengeti National Park and have a picnic on the way. Here we can also book our balloon flight for tomorrow morning with the agency My Miracle Experience.
At the entrance to the park, there is a sign that says:
REMOVE NOTHING FROM THE PARK EXCEPT
NOURISHMENT FOR THE SOUL
CONSOLATION FOR THE HEART
INSPIRATION FOR THE MIND
Upon arriving at the park, we embark on our first game drive in the Serengeti on the way to the lodge. All the animals, such as buffalo, zebra, giraffe, elephant, warthog and a few wildebeests, are roaming around peacefully. Hoessein immediately senses our interest in the nature around us and when I say, ‘Look over there,’ he brakes, stops and we take a look. Of course, he also has a good eye for nature. He apparently heard something through the intercom, because we drive on and on until we arrive at the right spot where another jeep is parked. And yes, there it is, prey in the tree and it resting underneath. Another leopard sighting: posing, of course we take lots of photos! I’m so lucky, I know!!!
Our lodge on top of the hill overlooking the Serengeti is under renovation, Thomas tells us, but we are getting an upgrade. Wait and see, and indeed, judging by the gate and access road, this is out of our league. What a surprise, what a hotel lodge, what an entrance, what a welcome! We feel like king and queen, and in all the excitement we even forget our mobile phone in the storage compartment of the jeep. But no problem, we will take care of it!
Upgrade squared: welcome in the lobby with warm towels and drinks (which we are now used to), but this is truly breathtaking, the views of the Serengeti, the room with treats and congratulations for our 50th wedding anniversary! It’s unbelievable. Serengeti Explorer by Elewana. Everything here is beautiful! TOP again, beyond words!
I’m enjoying the luxury, but Rudy is having a bit more trouble with the ever-present, attentive staff. Top-notch cuisine, delicious drinks and food, but tomorrow ready for our balloon ride. Time to get to bed and dream …
Day 8
The alarm goes off at 4 a.m. We don’t need to have breakfast because we’ll be getting a champagne breakfast after our balloon ride. We can already get coffee, tea and cookies in the lobby. We are picked up by a driver from The Experience.
And off we go! Pitch dark, eyes light up! A giraffe is standing in the middle of the path! No problem … Then the driver says: leopard in the bushes on the right and immediately reverses, but it’s already gone. A few hundred meters further on, a group of hyenas are feasting on what I think is the leopard’s kill. They quickly take their prey to the side of the road. One hyena keeps running in front of our jeep. The jeep can’t overtake it at 40-45 km/h. What powerful animals these are. And then we suddenly come to a standstill between a whole herd of buffalo crossing the road: in front of us, behind us, these mastodons of buffalo. Large, larger, largest and small calves. A very large buffalo, perhaps the leader of the herd, stares at us in the middle of the path. He refuses to budge! What a threat. Our driver also feels the tension: he turns off the engine and switches off the lights. We wait a few minutes … The buffalo decides, we hope, to rejoin his herd! Lights on and we see him disappear into the bushes, we can continue!
At the next crossroads, we wait for other jeeps. The driver gets out for a natural toilet break and Rudy joins him. I can see eyes lighting up in the dark bushes. I wouldn’t have done that! Finally, we drive on in the dark to the meeting point. There are fire pits and coffee or tea is served. I hear ‘Flemish’ and we meet a young couple from Ghent. Great … we exchange stories and then leave together for the balloons! We put on our harnesses. Our pilot has gathered 16 people around him, all Belgians, and he himself is also Belgian. He has been doing this in Tanzania for seven years. First, we receive a briefing in English: rules and how to board, protocol in the balloon, landing is explained in detail.
I feel very calm again and pass on that good feeling to Rudy, because this is another big event and adventure. It’s the first time for both of us.
We lie there in the basket and watch as it gradually gets light, the balloon unfolds and off we go! The basket tilts perfectly upright and we rise silently. The moment the pilot gives us permission to stand up and the sky turns pink and orange … there she is, Lora appears on the horizon! It’s yet another sunrise we’ve seen in Africa and I’m amazed again at how quickly it happens! We are sitting on the equator, after all! Our pilot Marc gives us lots of tips on how to make a 360° film, while he rotates the balloon 360°.
He flies high, low and says hello to the herds of wildebeests, zebras and buffalos. He flies low over the Sand River with hippos and crocodiles.
Yet another wonderful experience and emotional moments! There’s so much to see and the hour flies by so quickly. Landing (1 & 2) is being prepared. And as was explained during the briefing: landing 1 where the basket remains upright (a rare Hollywood scenario). Landing 2 clicks the basket back into a vertical position and we see the African sky.
A glass of champagne/mi mosa or fruit juice and a big kiss await us for our 50th wedding anniversary. The film and photos of the flight will be sent later. Chin chin to our successful flight! The jeeps are waiting for us and take us to the Serengeti location where a fantastic breakfast awaits us.
The washroom is worth a visit! A LOO WITH A VIEW! Toilets with mosquito netting instead of a window or door with a view of the Serengeti and elephant grass!
After the abundant and sumptuous breakfast, birthday boys and girls, honeymooners and anniversary celebrants are honored with a giant cake cut by the ladies! Dessert after breakfast!
We receive our certificate from our pilot and have a final pleasant chat with him. He is from our native region in Belgium and flew for many years with the well-known pilot Verstraete from Waasmunster!
It is gradually time to return to the rendezvous point. Our driver will not take us back to the lodge because our guide Thomas and driver/guide Hussein are waiting for us to start our game drive. I feel so spoiled by them!
Hussein says, ‘You’ve seen so much already, what else are you missing? We’ll go and look for it.’ Our answer: the cheetah! The pilot of our balloon told us that this really is The Cheetah Plains, so we hope to spot them.
And off we go! For three hours, we see lots of animals, including elephants, but no cheetahs! Our men decide to have a picnic under a large tree, but sorry guys, I need a washroom, so we have our picnic nearby!
Our search continues after our delicious lunch! Suddenly, a message comes over the intercom, in Swahili of course, but I realise that something is about to happen. Hussein races through the tall grass and there, under a tree, is a kill and a mother cheetah with her cub: they are feasting on their picnic (prey)!
All animals ticked off!
We slowly drive back to our 5-star lodge and have some extra time to enjoy our room and lodge.
Rudy lies down on the bed and falls asleep immediately. I come out of the bathroom and see, really, a large baboon jumping on our terrace. I let out a blood-curdling scream and he startles and jumps onto the wall and disappears onto the neighboring terrace. Rudy is awake too, of course! If only I had been sitting in my chair by the window (and luckily not on the terrace), I might not have screamed and could have taken a photo … But hey, that’s nature for you …
We enjoy our aperitif at the pool bar with a view over the Serengeti and an excellent dinner.
Tomorrow, we leave early for the Ngorongoro Crater.
Day 9
We don’t have to pay anything at reception when we leave, everything is included! We are so lucky and they take such good care of us here!
On our program today: a visit to a Masai village.
By leaving so early, we once again have a beautiful sunrise over the Serengeti. Nature awakens and the predators go to sleep. Families of hyenas with their characteristic howls and cries walk around the remains of a kill. Mother, the matriarch, is the largest, a few smaller ones are her cubs and the father come last and is tolerated by her.
A herd of elephants crosses our path and Hoessein (who knows so much about elephants and their behavior) positions himself in their path so that we can observe the atmosphere of this herd. The first one moves aside slightly so that they can pass us neatly. The penultimate one, who is not walking in line, keeps a close eye on us. The little ones walk along in line between the larger ones. Seeing them walk or march like this automatically brings Jungle Book with the march of the elephants to mind, both in image and sound! The only thing they don’t do is hold their tails.
Once again, I feel so spoiled!
Our next stop on the way is a visit to a Masai village. Hussein attended school and training with the local guide (a Masai resident). So, we are welcomed like royalty and given a private tour. We are also given beautiful traditional Masai robes to wear, and I even get a necklace: we feel so important, yet so ordinary and grateful.
During the tour, we learn more about their customs, how they make fire, their history, dancing and jumping (I join in the dancing). We also visit a mud hut where an entire family lives. This visit is both educational and confronting, because how can you live here with perhaps five or six people in a few square meters? Outside the village, surrounded by strong branches, stands the school building. It is a slightly larger hut with very enthusiastic children. We are welcomed with a recitation of the days, months, the entire English alphabet and beautiful singing. For a small contribution to their pot, we get a personalised song with our names in it. The enthusiasm and smiles on their faces are heart-warming!
I give them the souvenirs I bought (which Hussein advised me not to buy because they charge too much in the village)! I couldn’t resist …
Unforgettable moments spent with this Maasai community: hearing and learning about their traditions, stories passed down through generations. It is a connection that stays with us long after our return flight. We say goodbye to the village and continue our journey to the beautiful and high viewpoint on the Ngorongoro Crater.
After a tasty picnic, a visit to the washroom, and a stop at the monument where the first Neanderthal was found (a great photo opportunity), we drive on to the viewpoint and the entrance of the Ngorongoro Crater. What a sight, because down there lies the crater. I see the whole lake with lots of mini cars (jeeps) around it.
The Ngorongoro Crater is the largest caldera (collapsed volcanic cone) in the world. An imploded volcano 2,200 metres high. It covers 265 km2 of a total nature reserve of 8,300 km2. We drive down more than 600 metres to reach the floor of the crater. Due to its structure with rock walls and diverse vegetation, this is obviously a densely populated area for all kinds of wildlife. This explains the countless jeeps around the lake and around the spotted animals. Not really my thing, so I am glad when our driver decides to tour here in the afternoon, while most tourists are having their picnic or lunch.
Hoessein points to a spot high up on the rock face: ‘That’s where you’ll be staying, the most beautiful view and the most expensive lodge in Tanzania’. Wow Thomas, what to do, what did you do!!!
Of course, this time we see many flamingos, hippos, iguanas, wildebeests, elephants, lions, buffalos, impalas, zebras and jackals! Around 4 p.m., we leave and drive up a narrow road to our accommodation for the night.
Ngorongoro Lodge, member of the Melia Collection Leading Hotels of the World! What a welcome and arrival at this beautiful lodge. As in every lodge, we receive a warm welcome, but I am speechless and have tears in my eyes during the short briefing. What a view, so much beauty, such kindness!
Our room is a suite with windows overlooking the crater and the matchbox jeeps. As we sink into the leather armchair to take it all in, the flat screen starts with a welcome message. And now the tears really come, not from sadness but because I am overwhelmed!
How lucky we are, a fruit basket, chocolates and a well-stocked bar make us feel like birds in paradise!
After a delicious dinner (this time a la carte), musing and reflecting and savoring all the impressions, it’s time to go to sleep in our lovely bed. Never slept in Egyptian cotton before, it’s so soft and comfortable on the skin.
Up early again tomorrow morning, because we’re leaving for Lake Manyara. Taking a picnic with us again, so we’re deviating a little from the program, but who cares …
Day 10
Enjoyed a delicious breakfast, nothing to pay upon check-out, and hello Thomas and Mr. Company.
We thank them profusely for the lovely upgrade and see this as a gift. On the way to Lake Manyara, we are delayed a little by a jeep that has broken down. Our two men go to take a look and try to help. A part of the engine needs to be replaced, so there is nothing they can do and we continue our journey.
As a surprise, they have scheduled a stopover at Endoro gate Post, a bush walk with a ranger to the Elephant Caves and the waterfall. This stopover is a nice addition to our program. It shows how our guide Thomas thinks of us, especially Rudy, who asked about the waterfalls in the program when we started in Kenya. Here we will be able to see another wonder of nature. But the trip with the ranger in this nature reserve will be a tough one, with narrow paths going up and down.
At the start, when we meet our armed ranger (a very beautiful woman), we are asked to choose a stick, which will serve as an aid during the challenging trip of at least two hours.
First question from the ranger upon departure: ‘How can elephants’ maneuver through these very narrow paths without damaging the vegetation?’ DUH … They go up slowly and zigzagging. Going down is a completely different matter, they’re not very good at that.
We wonder how we or the elephants would react if we had a close encounter with them on this narrow path. It seems impossible for us to get out of the way: on the right is a steep wall with dense vegetation and on the left is a deep precipice! What to do, what to do … I think the buffalo are a greater risk. I’m less afraid of the leopard that also lives here. It is so shy and usually disappears immediately at the slightest sound. But the buffalo … and sure enough, our path is littered with fresh dung! The ranger also points out the paths that go up or down where the elephants pass. The trees they use as scratching posts and the small indentations in the rust- brown embankment where they dig with their tusks and consume the minerals.
Our next question: ‘What do we do when we encounter them?’ Her answer: ‘I read their signs very well, so we stay quiet and wait.’ If necessary, she fires a shot into the air because they (rangers) are here to protect us, but also to protect nature and its inhabitants. Buffalo is something else. No sign to be seen! I know that our question also makes Thomas alert; I don’t think he’s very comfortable with this! So, I just hope for our good fortune and karma again. I am reassured, but I really have to concentrate on the path, the difficult road. Thank God for the cane/walking stick!
What you notice when you look closely at where you are stepping are the wonders of nature. A whole colony (thousands) of ants walking across the path. ‘Be careful,’ warns the ranger, don’t let them crawl into your trousers or shoes, because their bites are terribly painful! Don’t go to Africa wearing the current fashionable wide trousers, lesson learned!
We climb further and I feel like I’m in a tropical rainforest, with a view over the treetops and a colorful canopy. Beautiful … We arrive at the river with the Elephant Caves on the other side. We are still in the Ngorongoro nature reserve, which is volcanic terrain. The elephants have dug caves here with their tusks to get at the minerals in the rock walls. They consume these minerals as a supplement to their food to strengthen their bone structure. The large trees around them have smooth bark, as if they have been polished. This is also the work of the elephants. After taking lots of photos and visiting the elephant dump (from this morning, according to our ranger), we continue our journey towards the waterfalls!
Another steep climb where I am really out of breath and we take a break to catch our breath and let our heart rates return to normal. ‘Sorry for my condition … ‘No worries, we’ll get there on your terms!’ We can already hear the sound of the waterfall. Once again, words fail me. ‘We have to take some nice photos here,’ I think to myself, ‘for our 50th anniversary invitation cards in November’. Thomas is the photographer on duty and we are delighted with our photos.
We begin our descent, up and down, with another rest break needed after a strenuous climb. Then we can continue on our way. I point out the bushes on the verge to Rudy: this really is the ideal place for a leopard to feel at home! A beautiful place to live and rest.
Further on, we watch where we step, step by step, using our walking sticks for support when necessary. After my fall down the stairs, I always watch where I walk or where I put my feet (False Syndrome). I see -really – a paw print, from a leopard! Our ranger first thinks it’s a hyena, but says that they usually leave their claw marks and those are not visible here. So yes’, she decides, ‘it’s a leopard and it’s recent’.
Fantastic, I’m already happy with a footprint, my day couldn’t be better! Once again, my imagination runs wild and I imagine him watching us closely from the bushes. In my moment of happiness, I forget to take a photo of my footprint.
Overall, a very nice, educational and fruitful activity! Thanks again, ASAP!!!
After visiting the washroom and saying goodbye to our ranger, we set off for Lake Manyara. Lake Manyara was formed millions of years ago by tectonic plate movements that created a large depression. The water level and surface area have changed significantly over the years: sometimes up to 200 km2 and other times reduced to 30 km2.
In the alkaline water, we now see large numbers of flamingos and pelicans. The largest and oldest baobab trees. The park is also known for its lions, which spend most of their time resting in the trees.
After our picnic with a view of the lake, hippos and flamingos, our game drive begins. We immediately spot the blue monkeys, the families of baboons sitting in and around the trees. Encounter with my elephant: Hoessein says to Rudy, who is taking photos standing upright: ‘Papa, don’t move, stay very still and if she wants to sniff, let her sniff …
I sit by the window and don’t move either. She stops 30 cm in front of my window. We make eye contact and, truly, I feel her and she feels me, peace and love, what a feeling! She calmly lets Hussein capture this image. Thomas doesn’t even dare to look away. Rudy doesn’t move a millimeter either! Hussein is concerned about his mirror, but luckily, she doesn’t touch it.
Respect on both sides!
After a while, we continue on our way. A large family of baboons is making a lot of noise: they are shouting and screaming. I think it’s a family quarrel. A little further on, there are a few jeeps and, sure enough, they have spotted something. A young lion is resting under a tree.
Suddenly, Rudy spots another lion in the bushes under a tree on the other side … And then bam 123: he grabs a baboon, kills it and the baby just in time in the tree, screaming and shouting, because mummy is no longer there …
That’s also nature, I’m glad we didn’t have to see this very often.
We continue our journey and see many more animals: we encounter topis and our (my) elephant again, as well as a number of large and small ones feasting on the low-hanging branches.
We drive slowly to our lodge with another stop to take beautiful photos of the thousands of years old baobab tree and viewpoint over the lake!
Upon arrival at our lodge, we are greeted by Maasai women and I am given a pearl necklace to wear. We dance together to their singing!
Lake Manyara Kilimamoja Lodge. Time to rest and then dinner time! There is a life-size elephant in the lobby, and hundreds of bats hang from the lobby ceiling. Traditional furniture and African art make this lodge a spectacle in itself.
Our room is another gem, with a terrace overlooking Lake Manyara, a fireplace with a buffalo head above it, a bath in front of the window overlooking the savannah, all in African style. Rudy feels like a king in this lodge! ‘This is the real Africa,’ he says a hundred times.
As this is our last evening in Tanzania, Thomas asks us to sit down together before dinner. We wonder, ‘Have we done or said something wrong?’, typical Western mentality of ours. ‘Suppose they have underestimated the upgrades and expect us to pay for them! We’ll see …
We decide to have a nice aperitif around 7 p.m. and wait for them. Eventually, we ask reception to notify them and a few minutes later, Thomas and Hoessein arrive.
Thomas says they wanted to talk to us because it is our last evening in Tanzania and they wanted to thank us for the wonderful time and good vibes during this trip. We gave beautiful things to Africa and Africa gave us beautiful things in return!
I am so impressed and emotional. There are no words to describe it! They want to emphasize this and give us a gift from the heart: a beautiful Maasai cloth embroidered with pearls for me and a typical Maasai cloth for Rudy. They drape these traditionally over our shoulders. We are speechless again! Finally, they apologize if they have said or done anything wrong! We assure them that this was certainly not the case. That we had so many ‘good vibes’ and ‘sights’ is also thanks to them.
KINDNESS and GOODNESS, you can’t pay for it! They made our adventure a once in a lifetime experience!
What a company and good guys! So grateful! We feel the love and friendship for life!
They let us enjoy our dinner with our beautiful robes on our shoulders. We attract a lot of attention when we sit down at the table.
Day 11
After a good night’s sleep and a delicious breakfast, we set off for Arusha: we are now getting closer to Kilimanjaro and hope to see it from a distance soon.
Hussein explains that it may or may not be possible. The rainy season has just ended, so the clouds are climbing higher and often form a blanket around Kilimanjaro.
Nature again … No expectations … We will see! Or not …
Our best attitude for visiting African nature, but a lesson well learned for the future!
Arusha: hometown of Thomas and Hussein. We leave Thomas for a moment and see each other again, because we are taken to the Masai market to complete our souvenirs (the BIG 5).
We get tips from Hussein on how to negotiate, because he stays nearby, of course, but cannot interfere in the negotiations.
We had already found a nice statue in the first shop, but we continue a little further and find the rest there. I want to add a nice necklace with an elephant as a lucky charm and in the end, we get our souvenirs at a well-negotiated price. Rudy is excellent at this!
Thomas is also back and we leave for the Namanga border. Kenya and Amboseli: here we come!
At the border, we change jeeps and driver/guide again. Sad farewell to Hussein, our Lukaku/Company!
Passport, baggage and visa control: we are gradually getting used to the screening.
Daniel is our new driver/guide for two days in Kenya. Thomas stays with us as our companion and trusted friend until we reach Nairobi airport and depart for Zanzibar. There, a colleague he has contacted will take over!
I feel Rudy’s stress increasing again, but NO WORRIES/POLE POLE/HAKUNA MATATA are my motto!
Our picnic and entrance to Amboseli Park go smoothly and we can immediately enjoy the vastness of this enormous park.
We see buffalo, elephants, zebras, wildebeests, hippos and lions again. The salt flats, the endless dusty paths, but no sign of Kilimanjaro.
No worries, perhaps tomorrow …
We drive past the sign for Serena Safari Lodge, located in the middle of Amboseli, several times. We still think we will be staying there, but when Thomas wanted to make a reservation, this lodge was already fully booked. So, he had to find an alternative again, and that search was not easy: but he found one, and a serious upgrade, of course!
Elephant Gorge camp We drive and bump along further and further … while I urgently, really urgently, need a washroom!
Finally, we arrive: I dash to the toilet! We are in a very recent Conservatory, which means a protected nature reserve. All parks are protected, of course, but here we are much further away from the well-known parks.
Once again, we are amazed by the ‘beauty of nature’ and the warm welcome, with an immediate apology because their electricity is failing. So, we have to choose our dinner straight away, so that they can prepare it with the emergency generator.
We are taken to our personal accommodation in golf carts: cottages with a tent-like vibe. The accommodation is explained to us, we receive our key and torch, and we are told that we must notify reception to be picked up. You are not allowed to walk around freely in this area. We fully understand this when we look at the surroundings, with elephant grass all around us.
No electricity, so no telephone, but there is a large bell hanging on our door. This will be the way to notify our transport.
I feel like I’m in Out of Africa-this feeling will stay with me for the rest of the evening, night, and morning! Rudy doesn’t want to take pictures of our outdoor stay because he feels like he’s in the movie The Ghost and the Darkness, and honestly, I understand him. Our bed is positioned facing the large windows: normally you’d have a direct view of Kilimanjaro. Too many clouds, though-but that doesn’t spoil the fun. We know it’s standing there proudly for us!
I see a lot of elephant dung around our little house, so I know they’re nearby too. Rudy is taking a shower in the semi-darkness, and I decide to try it tomorrow morning when hopefully there’s hot water again.
Ready for dinner, we hear the sound of a cowbell-and there’s our transport! Rudy asks why we couldn’t just walk … The driver explains that the elephants are very close, and indeed, in the twilight we see a mastodon at the side of the path.
In the main building, completely open with a beautiful veranda, we are speechless: what a cozy and atmospheric solution to their electricity problem. Oil lamps and candles are placed and hung everywhere. All the tables face the savannah!
This is really OUT OF AFRICA!
And then-believe it or not-down by the waterhole, a family of elephants arrives to complete our experience! Our eyes, already adjusting to the darkness, witness this right in front of us, tears welling up. How kind and generous can Africa be to us?
We take photos with both camera and phone, though we’re not sure if any of them turned out well.
We enjoy our delicious meal and decide to cancel tomorrow morning’s planned game drive in Amboseli. We want to fully savor our stay here. A long journey to Nairobi still awaits us, where we’ll catch our flight to Zanzibar. This way, we can also have a later breakfast! Yesterday during our drive, we already saw four of the Big Five-so much beauty already, that a relaxed morning without stress before heading to the airport is very welcome.
Daniel, our driver/guide, stops by our table and will discuss it with Thomas. We enjoy our dessert and happily go to sleep-with, yes indeed, a hot water bottle in our bed! As usual, I wake up around 5:15 AM (my African time) and decide to check the water-and yes, wonderfully warm. I choose to shower in the dark with only my flashlight. Around 6:30 AM, the electricity returns.
We enjoy a stunning sunrise, though sadly, Kilimanjaro remains veiled in clouds.
No worries – HAKUNA MATATA!
Day 12
Starting off relaxed, with more time to enjoy our room, the surroundings, and breakfast! With a view of the waterhole where gazelles are drinking.
Check-out and nothing to pay, and apologies for the lack of electricity. What a perfect spot to stay again! Thanks ASAP for the beautiful and lovely experience!
A ‘so sorry’ from Thomas-he couldn’t do anything about the outage either, but our enthusiasm about discovering this location reassures him.
And off we go towards Nairobi, feeling the farewell to Daniel and Thomas approaching. At the airport parking lot, we say goodbye to Daniel. Thomas accompanies us all the way to the gate. He tells us we’ll be met at Zanzibar Airport and taken to our resort. He’s already sent us a table with excursions and prices from his partner in Zanzibar.
Saying goodbye to our travel companion of 12 days is tough. All three of us are quiet. I ask if I may give him a hug, and so we part ways a bit emotionally.
After yet another round of checks-luggage, passports, visas-we can calmly wait for our flight. A smooth flight and more checks again, as we re-enter Tanzanian territory. We also need to take out insurance here, and the procedure is via QR code, internet, and phone: all good.
After a short delay, our taxi is waiting for us. Yusuf calls the resort and orders a sandwich, since the kitchen will be closed for dinner upon arrival.
It’s pitch dark by now, and a 1.5-hour drive takes us to our resort, Le Mersenne. We’ve already made an appointment with Yusuf to visit Stone Town and Jozani Forest the day after tomorrow.
Arriving at Le Mersenne, a 5-star resort, and after check-in with a briefing about the room, breakfast, and dinner times, we’re taken to our room in an electric limousine, where we find a delicious club sandwich and a bottle of white wine waiting for us.
It’s now 11 PM-time to crawl into bed. And then …
Day 13
Morning SUNRISE over the Indian Ocean-what a view again from our terrace!!!
I’m slowly starting to understand why the room and floor feel so damp. This is truly tropical- so beautiful-and today is all about rest, enjoyment, and exploring this stunning resort.
A delicious breakfast and a whole day of relaxation …
A drink at the bar with fantastic reggae and R&B music-I could sit here for hours, gazing out over the ocean. Dinner with the crashing, swirling water beneath us on the rocks. What more could one ask for?
A WhatsApp message confirms tomorrow’s pick-up time at 10 AM and the start of our day trip.
Sleeping well with this beautiful plan ahead!
Day 14
After a delicious breakfast, we meet our driver/taxi for the day in the lobby. A kind young man with very limited English skills, so we let the ride pass in silence. We take in the beautiful surroundings and the well-developed road network. Island vibes all around!
Our first stop is Jozani Forest, recommended by our daughter Ines, who visited it nearly 13 years ago and remembered the many monkeys in the trees. And rightly so.
Our driver is paid so he can handle the formalities at the park. He introduces us to the ranger who will guide us through the forest. The ranger asks us to carefully read the park rules posted at the entrance and urges us to walk quietly and keep our distance from the monkeys. And so, begins our walking safari.
He explains that two types of monkeys live here, along with many birds and Africa’s smallest elephant. You won’t see that one-it’s a shy little creature, more like an anteater!
The first monkeys (Sykes’ or blue monkeys) leap from branch to branch, high up in the treetops.
Plenty of photo opportunities, and a minimum 3-meter distance … well, they don’t seem to know that, because one comes right up to my face-just 50 cm away!
And then, miraculously, we spot the tiny anteater! Photo proof included. Africa is so good to me. A beautiful shot!
Our ranger also spots the other monkeys-red colobus monkeys-in a tree. A family with little ones: they’re very shy too, so silence is key. Through the foliage, we manage to get a few nice photos.
We leave the forest, wrap up the first part of our visit, and hop back into the car to head to the nearby mangrove forest. Here, beautiful wooden paths and bridges have been built, allowing us to walk through and admire these natural wonders.
The function of mangroves is so important for our climate and biodiversity. At high tide, they flood with ocean water, and at low tide, the water recedes. Microorganisms play a vital role for fish and aquatic life, and they also help regulate global temperatures. Many environmental scientists express concern here about climate change.
This visit was absolutely worth it. The ranger guides us to the exit, where our taxi waits for the next part of our day trip.
Our next stop: Stone Town! FREDDY (Mercury, the King of QUEEN), here we come …
We drive on relatively good and safe roads toward Stone Town. At the harbor and fort, we have an appointment with our local guide, who will take us through Stone Town for 2 to 3 hours, sharing historical and cultural insights about the city and its people.
Our guide is already waiting for us at the fort by the harbor. We sit on a bench and listen intently to the history and origins of Zanzibar and the fort, which was built for defense.
The Omani history of the fort and later the Sultan’s palace. Arab influences are everywhere. The island became a major producer of cloves and spices-we’ll visit the spice market later.
Many Indians also settled in this city. Their influence is still visible and tangible today.
Slaves from East Africa worked on the plantations, and as we suspected, the harbor became a hub for the global slave trade. The slave market was known worldwide and exploited by the West and fortune seekers. They imprisoned people, sold them at the market, and shipped them to Europe, America, and the East. Zanzibar became a key node in this inhumane trade.
We leave the harbor area and walk through narrow streets with shops and a beautiful church, standing side by side with a mosque. From the ornate minaret, we hear the call to prayer!
A metropolis, but with heartbreaking poverty, our guide tells us. Sadly, the harbor has shifted from slave trade to drug transit.
Fishermen (we’ll visit the fish market later) earn almost nothing and are recruited by the Italian mafia to retrieve dropped drugs from open waters and bring them ashore. The drugs are hidden in containers and shipped to Europe. Tragic but real.
Of course, we visit the birthplace and childhood home of Freddie Mercury, lead singer of Queen. He moved to England with his Indian parents and became, as we all know and as the building says, a legend:
‘I’M NOT GOING TO BE A STAR / I’M GOING TO BE A LEGEND’ – and that is SO TRUE!
We arrive at a small square with a lovely ice cream shop, where we’re allowed to use the washroom. We buy an ice cream for lunch and continue toward the market. Trash is still collected manually with carts here, as vehicles can’t access the narrow streets. We’re transported at least a century back in time!
As we pass a school building, we’re invited inside, and the children immediately start singing a song with our names, clapping … so beautiful!
Rudy already expected it: a shoebox is placed in front of us, and a small donation makes them all happy. Glad to do it, I think!
We pass a strikingly large door/gate with sharp copper spikes. The guide tells us it belonged to a prominent wealthy Indian family. They brought their customs and rich history here. In India, such gates were meant to deter elephants-the copper spikes were a sign of wealth (usually wooden spikes in India).
Our guide asks what we’d like to visit first: the fish market or the spice market? Rudy chooses the fish market-and wow, it’s beyond imagination.
Huge fish, heads, squid, tuna, swordfish lie on stone tables-blood and fluids dripping onto the floor. The smell isn’t too bad, I think, because fresh fish shouldn’t smell. But I’m wearing wide safari pants and have to roll up the legs to walk through. I’ve seen enough-on to the spices! The scents here are everywhere, but pleasantly so: so many stalls with vendors promoting their spice bags. Everyone wants to sell us their best product, but unfortunately, we’re leaving tomorrow and I don’t want to risk extra airport checks or a suitcase full of strong smells. We leave the market, and our guide calls the taxi. A few minutes later, he arrives at the agreed spot. We say goodbye to our guide and are driven back to Le Mersenne, our resort. We have time to relax before freshening up and enjoying our last aperitif and dinner on Tanzanian soil.
The farewell to Africa is approaching, and I receive a message from Yusuf that today’s driver will pick us up tomorrow around 1 PM.
Rudy’s stress level takes over, and we change the pick-up time to 12 PM-plenty of time for check-in, security, etc. Pole Pole and HAKUNA MATATA.
Suitcases are already partly packed for departure, and now I’m enjoying my last margarita and a delicious dinner!
Time to sleep now!
Day 15
Waking up peacefully at 5:30 AM, guided by my internal African clock. Rudy is still asleep, and I sit out on the terrace. Silence … and slowly, the light begins to rise: I enjoy my final sunrise over the Indian Ocean.
Reflecting on the past two weeks, I can hardly believe how quickly it all went by. So many impressions, beautiful and spectacular memories! It makes me a bit wistful. I could’ve easily stayed two more weeks-not on Zanzibar, but on the mainland. Tanzania still has so much to offer.
Anyway, here I am, daydreaming, feeling fortunate and already looking forward to going home. I’m taking the good and positive vibes with me!
Such blissful peace, birds waking up, and I take my morning shower while Rudy slowly wakes up. Sleeping in? Apparently, I’ve forgotten how!
We enjoy our final extensive breakfast on African soil.
Packing up the rest of our luggage, double-checking everything, and having our bags picked up by the resort’s golf cart.
Check-out at reception is warm and friendly-we receive a lovely farewell gift: a small pouch made of Maasai fabric with a Zanzibar spice blend, one for each of us.
Le Mersenne, a great resort with lovely people!
Our taxi, of course, arrives right on time and we head to the airport.
We arrive well ahead of schedule-our flight to Nairobi is at 6:40 PM. After security checks and paying for our hand luggage, we have plenty of time to look through our photos from the past ‘few days once again.
Departure is perfectly on time, and although I never sit by the window, this time I chose the left side. About half an hour into the flight, after enjoying our ice cream, the pilot announces over the intercom: ‘And now ladies and gentlemen, on your left-hand side you will see Mount Kilimanjaro, and I will make a 360° flight over this beautiful mountain.’
This truly feels like a gift from heaven! We couldn’t see it from the ground due to cloud cover, and now-this! Even hikers don’t get to see what we’re witnessing now: the summit, the crater, the snow-so majestic! Sitting perfectly by the window, I feel so lucky. We make sure the passengers on the right side also get to enjoy this spectacular view.
‘How fortunate can one be?’ I ask myself. I must share this with Thomas from ASAP, and send him photos once we’re through security in Nairobi.
His response to my message and photos: ‘Wow, Marita & Rudy, you are the luckiest people I have ever seen. Nature really likes you. It was a pleasure meeting you and I will never forget you! Thank you very much for these pictures. You are blessed!’
At 10:40 PM, after four security checks, we depart with Brussels Airlines for our overnight flight to Belgium. We enjoy a nice meal and a short nap. After a somewhat restless and uncomfortable sleep, we arrive safely at Zaventem, where our son Bjorn is already waiting for us with our luggage!
All the way home: talking, talking, stories, stories! He’s so happy everything went well and that we got to experience this adventure.
Epilogue
A WISE OLD MAN ONCE SAID:
THE WORLD WILL ALWAYS TURN
YOU CAN’T CHANGE THAT
ONLY HOW YOU DEAL WITH IT
WILL DETERMINE YOUR DIRECTION/FATE
It is 1:55 a.m. on 8 September, and as sometimes happens, sleep eludes me because so many thoughts are wandering through my head. Tonight, we had a lunar eclipse, also known as a blood moon.
Is this spiritually significant for the beautiful thoughts I am writing here now?
My account of our journey over the past 15 days will be a milestone for me, a gift for what remains of/in my life!
GRATEFUL is the key word!
Grateful for my parents, Mum and Dad and Meetje (grandmother): they accompanied me and were ever-present, in the beautiful stars among the millions in the African night sky!
Grateful for my three wonderful children, each and every one of them beautiful people, who so wholeheartedly wanted us to take this trip!
Grateful for my four handsome grandsons: Stef, Robbe, Mattia and Giona!
Grateful for our youngest, dear Matteo!
Grateful for my husband, partner in crime, together for 50 years. He was happy and enjoyed this trip because he saw how much I enjoyed it and how happy I was. I couldn’t have made this trip with anyone else!
Grateful for my family, my sisters who are always there and with whom I have made so many wonderful memories!
Grateful for my friends who were so happy for me and are now enthusiastically listening to my story!
Grateful that I was able to come home in such a distant country, where I felt at one with nature and with the people around me. I feel so close and at peace with myself here. I have often thought, ‘Do you have to be almost 70 years old to get to know yourself completely?
I think of Hussein’s words: ‘mama got good eyes, and not only to spot animals’. And yes, I felt this too when I locked eyes with my elephant!
I want to continue to be pure and down to earth. I thought I was already quite that way, but now I can let go of things even better.
Enjoying life and being happy with all the little things that come my way.
What a lesson this trip was, HUMBLE in the face of all that beauty, the overwhelming nature and animals.
Grateful that Dimitri from Travel 2 Galaxy chose to partner with ASAP Safari and their people. He kept in touch from Belgium! The concern and kindness of Thomas, Martin, Hussein, Daniel and Yusuf from ASAP made my dream come true!
Since our return home, not a day goes by that I don’t think about all this!
Gratitude is the common thread and has become my guiding principle!
Because FOR KINDNESS YOU CAN’T PAY!!!
HAKUNA MATATA!
